Introduction
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River trips
take the visitor into the heart of
Taman Negara's magnificent forests.
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In the heart of the Titiwangsa
Mountain Range, which makes up the central spine of
Peninsular Malaysia, lies the country's most important
protected area called Taman Negara (which means 'National
Park'). The park comprises over 4,000 square kilometres of
primary forest, mountain peaks, swift-flowing rivers and
cascades.
Parts of the area were first protected
in 1925 as the Gunung Tahan Game Reserve, named after the
area's highest peak. In 1939, while under British
jurisdiction, the protected area was expanded to encompass
parts of the states of Pahang, Trengganu and Kelantan and
was renamed King George V National Park. After Malaysia's
independence, in 1957, the area assumed its current title of
Taman Negara.
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En-route to
the cascades at
Lata Berkoh.
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River Trips
The easiest and most popular way to
see Taman Negara is to hire a boat and crew at Kuala Tahan,
the entry point to the park and the area zoned for
accommodation. The 8 kilometre boat ride to the cascades at
Lata Berkoh passes through some of the most magnificent
tropical rainforest in Southeast Asia. Huge forest giants
line the river banks, their massive trunks leaning over the
river at a remarkable angle in an effort to reach the
sunlight. In places these huge trees have crashed into the
river where the strong current has undercut the river bank.
Festooned with epiphytic ferns, mosses and orchids, the age
of these wonderful trees can only be guessed at.
Other river trips easily arranged at
the park headquarters include visits to Sungai Melantai and
Sungai Keniam further north. Unless recent rains and
landslides have muddied the waters upstream, many of the
rivers of Taman Negara are invariably crystal clear and
refreshingly cool. Fishing is allowed in the park, but it
takes a skilled angler to catch the famed Sebarau fish which
inhabit these waters.
Walking the Forests
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Left : A cup
mushroom
Right : The exquisite form of Sterculia sp.
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Walking trails lead to a number of
mountain peaks. Serious trekkers can attempt the
55-kilometre trail to Gunung Tahan, which needs a good deal
of commitment and stamina. Day walkers can aim for the
nearby peak of Bukit Teresek, just 2 kilometres from the
headquarters, and a longer return trail taking about 4 hours
may be attempted. Walking along the forest trails should not
be taken lightly - the paths are criss-crossed by numerous
tree roots and are often muddy and slippery.
Walkers and hikers invariably fail to
see the detail in the rainforest; it is better to walk
slowly and quietly and to keep an eye out for the smaller
forms of nature.
Night Hides
Those who visit Southeast Asia's
tropical rainforest for the first time are often
disappointed by the apparent lack of large mammals such as
Tiger, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Sun Bear etc. These larger
species are extremely difficult to locate on account of
their sensitivity to disturbance. However an overnight stay
at one of Taman Negara's hides, strategically located close
to natural salt licks, is often rewarded by the sight of
such mammals as the Malayan Tapir or the Asian Elephant.
Even if such species are not seen, simply to hear the
incessant calls of nocturnal insects, frogs and birds in the
heart of the forest is an experience in itself.
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Papilionid butterflies :
Above: Fivebar Swordtail
Right : Common Clubtail
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Insect Life
The diversity of insects in tropical
forests is huge ... species probably number in the millions.
Most easily seen are butterfly species such as the Five-bar
Swordtail, which congregate at areas such as campsites,
banks of streams, or along paths where foodstuffs have been
dropped.
Perhaps the most numerous insects are
the ants and termites. These form extensive colonies located
underground or in rotten tree trunks. Witness the millions
of busy termites which follow trails snaking across the
forest floor, and you will then grasp how key these species
are to rainforest ecology. Their role is to digest rotting
wood and to return the nutrients to the soil; without this
function it is probable that the forests would not survive,
for each new tree needs the nutrients of fallen, rotten
trees in order to grow.
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The Oriental Mole Cricket Gryllotalpa
orientalis (left) and the Giant Forest Ant
Camponotus gigas (above). |
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The Giant Forest Ant Camponotus
gigas is a rather solitary species which prefers to
scavenge the forest floor. Some specimens can reach over one
inch in length, but despite this huge size they are harmless
and will not bite humans.
At night the loud, reverberating call
of the Oriental Mole Cricket Gryllotalpa orientalis
may be heard. This species inhabit burrows excavated in
sandy soils from where they make quick attacks on passing
prey.
Exotic Birds - Great Argus,
Masked Finfoot, Rhinoceros Hornbill
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Left : The
uncommon Masked Finfoot Heliopais personata
can be seen
along Taman Negara's river banks.
Right : The Long-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera
robusta is a regular visitor to the exotic
blooms of the Indian Coral Tree Erythrina
variegata.
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For many the attraction of Taman Negara
is the abundant bird life, reckoned to comprise over 350
species. Though many forest species live secretive lives,
either foraging in the undergrowth or hiding up in the
canopy, at times these species may visit more open areas
when there are flowering or fruiting trees. Perhaps the
easiest place to spot a diversity of birds is right at your
resort, where trees attractive to birds may have been
planted; birds will be active at these sites early in the
morning.
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Rhinoceros
Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros |
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The lucky and observant visitor may
encounter such exotic species as the Crested Fireback (a
type of pheasant) and the Great Argus as it performs in its
dancing ground. Hornbills are often seen, including the
Wreathed, Great and Indian Pied Hornbill; the Rhinoceros
Hornbill is perhaps the most dramatic of all, with its huge
red, orange and yellow casque. During the winter migration
season, when birds from North Asia move south to warmer
climes, the rare and unusual Masked Finfoot may be sighted
along the banks of Taman Negara's rivers. Keep an eye out
too for the attractive Black and Red Broadbill, and other
Southeast Asian forest birds including Leafbirds, Trogons,
the Asian Fairy Bluebird, Barbets, Minivets and Woodpeckers.
Common Lizards and Frogs of
Taman Negara ...
Hundreds of species of Reptile and
Amphibian inhabit the lowland rainforest of Peninsular
Malaysia. The short-term visitor may catch sight of a
handful of the more common species, as shown in the photos
below.
Other features
Taman Negara is also home to one of
Malaysia's aboriginal groups, the Batek. As with other Orang
Asli (or 'Original People') they traditionally led a nomadic
lifestyle in the forests, hunting game with blowpipes. In
recent years they have been settled by the government in
villages, and visits to these settlements can be arranged.
The park also has a number of caves,
some of which are open to the public. Many species of bat
roost in these caves and these secretive mammals are easily
disturbed, so excessive numbers of visitors should not be
encouraged.
Near the park headquarters there is
also a canopy walkway allowing a closer look at the ecology
of the treetops. At 400 metres in length this is reputedly
the longest in the world, though in recent years it has
suffered through lack of proper maintenance. A good deal of
concentration is needed to keep one's focus on the flora at
canopy level, and not be distracted by the swaying walkway.
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